Kulture Kaiwa

For reasons not yet clear to me, I woke this morning yearning for the comforts of my motherland. Though the temptation to remain rugged up in the warmth of my doona was strong, it couldn’t overpower the desire I awoke with. I decided to ‘Google Maps’ the address of a Perth Filipino grocer that I had been intending to visit for a while and, undeterred by the 30minute journey, donned a sweater and pearl earrings, queued up my Spotify tracks, and set out for the southern suburbs.

Pulling into the carpark of the almost deserted Huntingdale shopping centre, the storefront didn’t look like anything special. The blue and white labels across the wall struck me as chemist-like and I was surprised to see two young teenage boys eagerly walking into the store. I followed suit, curious as to what Filipino treasures awaited me inside. Boy was I delighted.

Ube, Coconut and Mangos Galore

As you enter the supermarket, the first thing you notice is the glowing fridge to your left filled with sweet delicacies like leche flan, ube roll cakes, and mango float. My excitement rose as I stepped in further to notice a rack full of freshly baked breads, including my all time favourite, pan de coco; a soft, fluffy bread roll filled with sticky, caramelized coconut. While perusing their array of baked goods, it’s difficult not to notice the very intentional pieces of décor surrounding you.

I felt my heart strings being pulled in all directions. Looking at the sari-sari store display, I was taken back to the dusty roads of Media Once (my mother’s home town) as a kid, staring up at the stall fronts from below and waiting for Aunty to buy packets of Juicy Fruit and soda. In Tagalog, sari-sari means “variety” or “everything”, and these types of stalls function similarly to the corner deli stores we have here in Australia. With the endless packets of rainbow coloured goodies dangling from the cage wall that separated customer from attendee, they looked like quirky little candy stores to me.

It’s More Fun In The Philippines

Set out in front of Melissa’s display is a table with benches all around, inviting you to sit and play a round of sungka; a traditional game where you pick up and move delicate little seashells around a long wooden board, hollowed out and embellished with simple floral patterns.

On the other side of the store you’ll find display models of Filipino memorabilia. The first I notice are two little ice cream carts. They’re the kind you might see wheeled around the streets of the provinces, concealing a giant metal drum filled with what my mum refers to as ‘street ice cream’. Beside these sits an inviting traditional bamboo hut, fitted with comforting white lace curtains hanging all around, just like the ones at mum’s. And finally, a small church model with the famous words “It’s more fun in the Philippines” sitting boldly above. I originally came only wanting to find some sentimental snacks to binge on, and instead found myself face to face with the magic of the Philippines itself. However, let’s not skip over said snacks.

The first packet I grabbed off of the shelf was one of the Jack n Jill Chippy bags, a snack I had spent many car rides crunching on with my mum after a visit to the Asian grocer. Next, SkyFlakes. You could probably find a tub of these beloved crackers in every Filipino household, whether it actually contains the crisp snacks or not is another story. Like rice, I’d say it’s a staple. While the cultures of the west tend to favor rich, buttery shortbreads sandwiched with sweet, creamy fillings, Filipinos seem to have a sweet spot for crackers. And not just as savoury snacks. You can find them with all manner of fillings, from lemon cream to chocolate paste to cheesy spread, there’s something to suit every palate.

Sorry, I only Speak English..

Beyond the snacks aisle, I stocked up on some pantry staples of vinegars, dried fish, rice and corned beef. Lugging my haul up to the front counter, I was greeted by three men; two workers and a fellow customer. “First time here?” asked the older attendee. This was followed by something in Tagalog that I didn’t understand. Slightly embarrassed by my language inadequacy, I confirmed his suspicion and expressed my delight at their range of goods in English. My embarrassment dissipated quickly as, like most Filipinos, they immediately became hospitable at the sight of a new face and, after a quick exchange, invited me to return every Saturday to join in on their weekly fiesta.

After being cut off from the Philippines over the last few Covid-infested years, Melissa’s Supermarket gave me a fresh sense of the beloved island country right here in the outer suburbs of Perth. Though the visits might not be weekly, I definitely plan on returning whenever my pantry, or Pinoy heart, is in need of replenishment.